jst: Man's Mantle (Hinggi). Ikat dyed cotton. 106" (269 cm) X 52" (132 cm). Circa 1942. Kambera, Sumba Island, Indonesia.

This textile was made by Tamu Rambu Omi, a princess/queen, and reported to have taken eight years to complete. The symbols on the cloth include "Putri Duyung" which is the Sumba equivalent of mermaids. Duyung are the white sea cows that inhabit the waters in the area. Putri means princess.

There are myths in many cultures of Indonesia regarding magical duyung princesses. They appear on this cloth in relation to the following myth. One day a Putri Duyung dove down into the sea to find fish, and left her baby (pictured on the cloth) on a rock, where he was in danger and alone. The tide rose up, and the baby was rescued by another Putri Duyung (also pictured in the cloth). The baby grew up to be the ancestor of the Kambera royalty.

The kings of Kambera have a special relationship with the Putri Duyung who saved the baby. Every year there is a procession and ritual when the King goes to meet the Putri Duyung. His powers to rule would be lost if he did not pay this tribute and give offerings annually. The princess who made the cloth was married to the (at that time) King of Kambera, Umbu Mbitang. He was the only man who was allowed to wear this Hinggi. When Tamu Rambu Omi made this cloth, she actually made two identical Hinggi (as is traditionally done in Sumba for important Hinggi, similar to Dayak women who weave two identical Kebat at a time). The pair to this cloth is now at the house of the Raja of Rai Jua (Savu).

The motifs on the left and right side panels of this Hinggi are royal Savu motifs. According to the story as told, a princess of the Rai Jua (Savu) family was married into the Kambera royalty (Umbu Mbitang's mother??). When she came to Sumba to marry the Kambera prince, she brought with her a royal Savu textile with this pattern, and also a fine Indian Patola as part of her "dowry". The Hinggi shows the motifs from the Savu royal cloth (left and right), and the fine Patola (warp ends with tumpal, and on the male end there is also a band of the Patola's main motif).

The male figures on the end of the cloth are portraits of Umbu Mbitang, the King, flanked by seahorses and shrimp. Seahorses and shrimp are involved in the tribute rituals done in honor of the Putri Duyung. The motifs in the center blue and white sections are reserved exclusively for Sumba nobles.

This is a very beautiful and important royal Hinggi, commemorating the myths and lineage of the Kambera Umbus and Tamu Rambus.