CEREMONIAL TEXTILES "PUA" FROM SARAWAK, BORNEO ISLAND.

"Pua" are large ceremonial textiles woven by Iban (Dayak) women of Sarawak State, as well as related groups in West Kalimantan. The Iban are the largest indigenous ethnic group in Sarawak and were considered the fiercest warriors in the region.

Most Pua were woven in the "Ikat" method, a technique using resist fibers that are wrapped around small areas of the warp or weft threads to protect these specific areas from absorbing the various dyes. Striking patterns are created with the different areas of color, usually variations of red, blue, and the original white background color. In a complex way, the patterns are formed before the cloth is woven. Once the weft threads are woven in, the full pattern emerges from the finished cloth (on both sides equally). Duplicate, mirror image panels are woven by doubling up the threads during the dying process. The two identical panels are sewn together to make the larger, finished cloth. Other techniques for weaving Pua include "Pilih" and "Sungkit", which create patterns by introducing additional dyed weft threads in the final weaving process. In some cases, Iban weavers would add synthetic dyes, bartered from coastal traders, to the border stripes. The Iban believed this added status to the cloth as only wealthy families could afford such luxuries.

Traditionally, the patterns come from women’s dreams or powerful images that were passed down for generations. Patterns may represent ancestral spirits, animals, fruit, trees, leeches, fire tongs, head baskets, and so on. Pua were powerful ritual objects that were used in the most important ceremonies relating to birth, death, healing, divination, agricultural, warfare, and headhunting. Pua were used to create protected ritual spaces, wrap important ceremonial objects, cover the head of shamans or healers, and to show statue and wealth of the owners. The most powerful Pua were used to carry the skulls from headhunting raids into the longhouse (the traditional village).

This group of Pua were collected in the 1980s by a European dealer who traveled regularly to Sarawak.
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bn57: Ceremonial Textile (Pua)

bn60: Ceremonial Textile (Pua)

bn62: Ceremonial Textile (Pua)

bn63: Ceremonial Textile (Pua)

bn65: Ceremonial Textile (Pua)

bn66: Ceremonial Textile (Pua)

bn69: Ceremonial Textile (Dadong)